SULAWESI & HALMAHERA
25th May 2002 to 15th June 2002
David & John F. Cooper
INTRODUCTION
Wallacea is a transitional zone between the Oriental and Australasian faunal realms. At 379, Sulawesi, formerly known as Celebes, has the smallest numbers of bird species of any of the seven biogeographic regions in Indonesia, though hosts 96 species not shared with other regions. Birdlife International has identified 24 Endemic Bird Areas (EBAs) within Indonesia, of which our trip to Sulawesi and Halmahera visited the following:
Sulawesi lowlands within the Sulawesi Biogeographic Region
Sulawesi mountains within the Sulawesi Biogeographic Region
North Moluccas within the Maluku Biogeographic Region
ITINERARY
25th May: Arrived Manado after midday and driven to Tangkoko NP where we
met Howard & Thais Armstrong. Late afternoon visit to a grassy
clearing staying until after dusk.
26th May: All day spent in lowland areas of Tangkoko NP.
Tangkoko Volcanic beach
Tangkoko National Park.
Butterflies in Tangkoko National Park.
27th May: Climbed to c.1,100m on the volcano in Tangkoko NP. Left Tangkoko
NP at 4pm for the Hotel Minahassa in Manado.
View taken from the top of the volcano in Tangkoko NP.
crossing where we birded the scrubby habitat before continuing to Lore
Lindu NP in time for some birding along the upper section of the
Dongi-Dongi road until after dark before continuing to Wuasa.
Flying into Palu.
Lore Lindu NP entrance sign.
Moths
29th May: Driven to the top of the Anaso track surviving one of our jeeps bursting
into flames half-way up. Spent most of the morning around the summitbefore walking down virtually the entire track in the afternoon.
Views taken along the Anaso track.
the Anaso track before a brief foray along the Anaso track halted by a
torrential downpour. Spent the remainder of the daylight walking the
road from Lake Tambine in the direction of Wuasa.
Lake Tambine
Swallowtail type
31st May: Spent the morning in the Wuasa forest with a brief lunchtime visit to
some nearby paddies before returning to the Lake Tambine area.1st June: Early morning spent at Lake Tambine before being driven to the
summit of the Anaso track from where we again walked down.
Orchids
direction of Dongi-Dongi. Mid-afternoon rain so drove back to Palu.
3rd June: Early morning flight to Manado. Left Manado at 1.15pm arriving at
Ternate at 4pm.
Our flight to Ternate.
Our plane arriving at Ternate.
View from Ternate airfield.
speedboat across to Sidangoli from where we were drove to KBP
from where we walked to the top of the ridge.
Arriving at Halmahera.
Arriving at Sidangoli, Halmahera.
Views from Sidangoli
Local fisherman
View looking back to Ternate
View near our lodge near Sidangoli.
5th June: Spent the morning along the Standardwing trail, then walked the
logging track before returning to the Standardwing trail hitching a lifton the back of a passing lorry after dark back to our accommodation.
Forest view on Halmahera.
from a passing motorbike to the top of the ridge. Walked down the
road to the accommodation before walking back up to the ridge late afternoon.
Our Halmahera lodge, lovely views but very basic.
7th June: Usual morning along the Standardwing trail before hitching a ride in a
passing van to the ridge from where we walked back to ouraccommodation. Spent evening on road viewing adjacent ridge.
Orchids on Halmahera
Butterfly on Halmahera.
Dusk on Halmahera.
8th June: Chartered a longboat to tour the Sidangoli mangroves for a couple of
hours. Took a speedboat back to Ternate. Visited Lake Tolire Besar
and a couple of other nearby lakes until dusk.
Boat trip around the mangroves at Sidangoli .
bone NP stopping in an area of paddies en-route.
10th June: Spent the morning at Tambun though heavy rain hampered birding.
Spent the afternoon along the river near Toraut.
11th June: Spent the morning at Tambun returning to the river at Toraut for the
afternoon.
12th June: Spent the early morning in the vicinity of the dam downstream of
Toraut before walking a trail through a small patch of forest behind
the Toraut HQ before returning to the dam area of the river. Drove late
afternoon to a town nearer to Gunung Ambang.
13th June: Walked to the forest at Gunung Ambang spending most of the morning
there before driving to Manado and then onto Tangkoko NP arriving
after dark.
14th June: Spent much of the day in the lowland forest at Tangkoko NP before
leaving for Manado stopping in some roadside forest en-route.
15th June: Left Manado just after midday.
SYSTEMATIC LIST
Little Grebe - Tachybaptus ruficollis tricolor C
Around 20 in full breeding plumage were seen and heard calling on Lake Tolire Besar on Ternate on the 8th.
Frigatebird sp. - Fregata sp.
A spiral of 4 were seen from the speedboat between Ternate and Sidangoli on the 4th and c.25 were seen off Ternate from the coast near to Lake Tolire on the 8th.
Lesser Frigatebird - Fregata ariel C
Somewhat surprisingly a single individual was seen flying over Lake Tolire Besar on the 8th.
Darter - Anhinga melanogaster melanogaster C
A single individual was seen on Lake Tambine at Lore Lindu NP on both the 30th and the 2nd. This species is listed as Near Threatened by BirdLife (2000).
Purple Heron - Ardea purpurea manilensis C
Singles were seen in paddies at Wuasa on the 31st and in paddies on the drive from Lore Lindu to Palu on the 2nd. Around 5 were seen in paddies on the drive from Manado to Dumoga-bone NP on the 9th and whilst in the Dumoga-bone NP area we saw 1 on the 10th and 2 on the 11th.
Great Egret - Egretta alba modesta C
Singles were seen on the 8th, 9th and 10th.
Intermediate Egret - Egretta intermedia plumifera C
A single individual was seen on our arrival at Ternate airport on the 3rd and 2 were seen in paddies between Manado and Dumoga-bone NP on the 9th.
Little Egret - Egretta garzetta nigripes C
We saw around 10 on the drive from Manado to Dumoga-bone NP on the 9th and 2 on the drive from Ambang to Manado on the 13th.
Cattle Egret - Bubulcus ibis coromandus C
We saw 4 near Manado on the 25th, up to 8 were seen on two dates in the Wuasa paddies and up to 50 were seen daily on Sulawesi from the 9th to the 13th
Javan Pond-Heron - Ardeola speciosa speciosa C
Around 6 were seen between Palu and Lore Lindu NP on the 28th with around the same number being seen on the return journey on the 2nd. Around 15 were seen in paddies on the drive from Manado to Dumoga-bone NP on the 9th and 1 was seen on the drive from Ambang to Manado on the 13th.
Little Heron - Butorides striatus moluccarum C
We saw 2 in mangroves at Sidangoli on the 8th.
Rufous Night-Heron - Nycticorax caledonicus hilli C
We saw 4 at a lake on Ternate on the 8th and 1 between Manado and Dumoga-bone on the 9th.
Cinnamon Bittern - Ixobrychus cinnamomeus C
Singles were seen in the Wuasa paddies on the 31st and on three dates along the river at Toraut.
Woolly-necked Stork - Ciconia episcopus neglecta C
We saw a party of 4 on the drive from Manado to Dumoga-bone on the 9th.
Jerdon’s Baza - Aviceda jerdoni celebensis C
A single immature was seen in flight at the upper end of the Dongi-Dongi road in Lore Lindu NP on the 2nd and 3 were seen in flight above the river downstream of Torout on the 12th.
Barred Honey-Buzzard - Pernis celebensis celebensis C
Only definitely identified in Lore Lindu NP where up to 5 were seen on three dates with most seen along the Anaso track and around Lake Tambine.
Brahminy Kite - Haliastur indus intermedius / girrenera C
Seen on twelve dates in small numbers including at Tangkoko, Ternate, Halmahera and Dumoga-bone NP.
White-bellied Sea-Eagle - Haliaeetus leucogaster C
Singles seen at Tangkoko on the 25th and 14th and on Ternate on the 3rd.
Sulawesi Serpent-Eagle - Spilornis rufipectus rufipectus C
Singles were seen flying over the canopy at the far side of Lake Tambine in Lore Lindu NP on the 30th and perched beside the road between Tambun and Torout on the 11th.
Spotted Harrier - Circus assimilis C
An adult was seen twice over the forest near the dam just downstream of Torout on the 12th.
Variable Goshawk - Accipiter novaehollandiae griseogularis C
Singles were seen on three dates at KBP on Halmahera and 1 was seen over a lake on Ternate on the 8th.
Small Sparrowhawk - Accipiter nanus C
A single individual showing some signs of immaturity was seen both perched and in flight along the trail into the Wuasa forest on the 31st. This species is listed as Near Threatened by BirdLife (2000).
Black Eagle - Ictinaetus malayensis malayensis C
Singles were seen in flight and perched at close quarters near Torout on the 11th and nearby on the following day.
Gurney’s Eagle - Aquila gurneyi C
We saw a pair flying over the canopy of the hillside forest viewed from near the entrance to the logging track at KBP on Halmahera on the 6th and probably 1 of the same pair from our lodge on Halmahera the following day. This species is listed as Near Threatened by BirdLife (2000).
Rufous-bellied Eagle - Hieraaetus kienerii formosus C
We saw 2 along the upper section of the Anaso track in Lore Lindu NP on the 29th and a fine adult over the forest near the dam just downstream of Toraut on the 12th.
Immature Rufous-bellied Eagle along the upper section of the Anaso track in Lore Lindu NP .
We saw an adult and a juvenile whilst walking down from the volcano at Tangkoko on the 27th and an immature over the forest near the dam just downstream of Toraut on the 12th.
Spotted Kestrel - Falco moluccensis microbalia / moluccensis C
We saw 1 over paddies near the edge of the Wuasa forest on the 31st, up to 2 seen on three dates around KBP on Halmahera and singles in the Toraut area on the 11th and 12th.
Oriental Hobby - Falco severus C
Singles were seen along the road near the base of the Anaso track and at Lake Tambine in Lore Lindu NP on the 30th and 2nd.
Wandering Whistling-Duck - Dendrocygna arcuata arcuata C
At Tambun we saw 6 on the 10th and 8 on the 11th.
Sunda Teal - Anas gibberifrons C
We saw around 20 in paddies on the drive from Manado to Dumoga-bone NP on the 9th and up to 6 on three dates in the vicinity of the river at Toraut.
Philippine Scrubfowl - Megapodius cumingii gilbertii C
A single individual was seen briefly in the forest at Tangkoko on the 14th.
Maleo - Macrocephalon maleo C
We heard them at Tambun on the 10th though our search was hampered by heavy rain but were rewarded with fine views of around 5 in the vicinity of the nesting grounds on our return visit on the 11th. This species is listed as Vulnerable by BirdLife (2000) who list exploitation and human disturbance as the main threats.
Red Junglefowl - Gallus gallus gallus
A single male was heard vocalising whilst we climbed the volcano in Tangkoko NP on the 27th.
Barred Buttonquail - Turnix suscitator rufilata C
We saw a party of 12 flushed from near the riverside downstream of Toraut on the 11th.
Buff-banded Rail - Gallirallus philippensis philippensis / yorki C
JFC saw 1 in the paddies at Wuasa on the 31st, singles were seen on two dates at KBP on Halmahera and around 6 were seen on the drive from Tambun to Toraut on the 10th.
Barred Rail - Gallirallus torquatus celebensis C
A single individual was seen on the drive from Manado to Tangkoko NP on the 25th, 3 were seen on the drive from Tambun to Toraut on the 10th, c.5 were seen in the Toraut area on the 12th and c.6 were seen on the drive from Tangkoko NP to Manado on the 14th.
White-browed Crake - Poliolimnas cinerea C
A single individual was seen at roadside paddies between Manado and Dumoga-bone NP on the 9th.
Isabelline Bush-hen - Amaurornis isabellinus C
Singles were seen to fly across the road and briefly in the roadside vegetation between Manado and Tangkoko NP on the 25th, flushed from a grassy clearing in Tangkoko NP on the 26th and amazingly at the roadside whilst driving in the suburbs of Manado on the 27th and a pair allowed excellent views as they dried themselves off in the middle of the road between Tangkoko NP and Manado on the 14th.
White-breasted Waterhen - Amaurornis phoenicurus leucomelanus C
A single individual was seen on the drive between Lore Lindu NP and Palu on the 2nd and 3 were seen in the vicinity of the dam downstream of Toraut on the 12th.
Purple Swamphen - Porphyrio porphyrio indicus C
We saw around 10 in paddies between Manado and Dumoga-bone NP on the 9th.
Pacific Golden Plover - Pluvialis fulva C
A single individual was seen in mangroves at Sidangoli on Halmahera on the 8th.
Whimbrel - Numenius phaeopus variegates C
We saw 2 in mangroves at Sidangoli on Halmahera on the 8th.
Common Tern - Sterna hirundo longipennis C
Around 40 were seen in the channel between Halmahera and Ternate on the 8th.
Bridled Tern - Sterna anaethetus anaethetus C
We saw 3 from our speedboat crossing between Ternate and Halmahera on the 4th and c.200 between Halmahera and Ternate on the 8th.
Spotted Dove - Streptopelia chinensis tigrina C
Seen on five dates typically in degraded habitat with a daily maximum of 6 seen on the 9th.
Brown Cuckoo-Dove - Macropygia amboinensis albicapilla / batchianensis C
We saw 3 whilst climbing the volcano in Tangkoko NP, singles in Lore Lindu NP on the 30th and 31st, up to 5 on two dates around KBP on Halmahera and up to 2 on four dates from the 11th to the 14th.
Great Cuckoo-Dove - Reinwardtoena reinwardtii reinwardtii C
A single individual was seen in flight along the road at KBP on Halmahera on the 4th.
Sulawesi Black Pigeon - Turacoena manadensis C
DC saw 1 near the top of the volcano at Tangkoko NP on the 27th, 2 were seen in flight over the river at Toraut on the 10th with 1 seen at Tambun on the 11th and 1 near Toraut on the 12th.
Emerald Dove - Chalcophaps indica indica C
DC saw 1 near the entrance to Tangkoko NP on the 26th.
Stephan’s Dove - Chalcophaps stephani wallacei C
DC saw 1 at Tambun on the 10th, 1 was seen in the small patch of forest behind the Toraut HQ on the 11th and 3 were seen in the Toraut area on the 12th.
Pink-necked Green Pigeon - Treron vernans purpurea C
We saw a party of 3 on the drive from Manado to Dumoga-bone NP on the 9th.
Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon - Treron griseicauda wallacei C
We saw 15 at Tangkoko NP on the 26th and 14th, 10 at the Wuasa forest on the 31st and up to 6 on three dates in the Tambun and Dumoga-bone NP areas.
Red-eared Fruit-Dove - Ptilinopus fischeri C
We saw 5 along the road near Lake Tambine and towards Dongi-Dongi from the base of the Anaso track in Lore Lindu NP on the 30th.
Red-eared Fruit-Dove near Lake Tambine
A single individual was seen at Tambun on the 10th. This species is listed as Near Threatened by BirdLife (2000).
Superb Fruit-Dove - Ptilinopus superbus temminckii / superbus C
DC saw 1 along the track to Lake Tambine on the 30th and 1 was seen in scrubby habitat bordering Lake Tolire Besar on Ternate on the 8th.
Blue-capped Fruit-Dove - Ptilinopus monacha C
A single male was seen along the logging track at KBP on the 5th and an adult and immature were seen in habitat bordering Lake Tolire Besar on Ternate on the 8th. This species is listed as Near Threatened by BirdLife (2000).
Grey-headed Fruit-Dove - Ptilinopus hyogaster C
Up to 5 were seen daily on four dates around KBP on Halmahera.
Black-naped Fruit-Dove - Ptilinopus melanospila melanospila C
Single males were seen along the beach track at Tangkoko NP on the 26th and at the edge of the Wuasa forest on the 31st.
White-bellied Imperial Pigeon - Ducula forsteni C
Up to 20 were seen daily on five dates in Lore Lindu NP.
Grey-headed Imperial Pigeon - Ducula radiata C
Up to 6 were seen daily on three dates in Lore Lindu NP.
Green Imperial Pigeon - Ducula aenea paulina C
Up to 10 were seen daily on four dates at Tangkoko NP and up to 20 were seen daily on three dates in the Tambun and Dumoga-bone NP areas.
Spectacled Imperial Pigeon - Ducula perspicillata perspicillata C
We saw 2 at KBP on Halmahera on the 7th.
Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon - Ducula basilica basilica C
At KBP on Halmahera we saw 2 on the 6th and 1 the following day proving to be JFC’s 5,000 species seen in the World.
Pied Imperial Pigeon - Ducula bicolour melanura C
Around 15 were seen in the mangroves at Sidangoli on Halmahera on the 8th.
Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon - Ducula luctuosa C
We saw 8 at Tangkoko NP on both the 25th and 26th.
Violet-necked Lory - Eos squamata riciniata C
At KBP on Halmahera DC saw 1 on the 4th with 2 seen on both the 6th and 7th.
Ornate Lorikeet - Trichoglossus ornatus C
Surprisingly just a single individual was seen in a clearing at Tangkoko NP on the 26th.
Yellow-and-Green Lorikeet - Trichoglossus flavoviridis meyeri C
Up to 10 were seen daily on three dates along the Anaso track and in the Lake Tambine areas of Lore Lindu NP.
Chattering Lory - Lorius garrulus
Unfortunately just captive birds seen in the night market on Ternate.
Red-flanked Lorikeet - Charmosyna placentis intensior C
A pair were seen in flight from near the entrance to the logging track at KBP on Halmahera on the 6th.
White Cockatoo - Cacatua alba C
We saw 1 perched at a great distance at KBP on Halmahera on the 6th, around 35 at KBP including some fine views on the 7th and around 6 on Ternate on the 8th. This species is listed as Vulnerable by BirdLife (2000) who list the threats as habitat loss and degradation and exploitation.
Eclectus Parrot - Eclectus roratus vosmaeri C
Up to 12 were seen daily on four dates whilst at KBP on Halmahera.
Red-cheeked Parrot - Geoffroyus geoffroyi cyanicollis C
Up to 10 were seen daily on four dates whilst at KBP on Halmahera.
Yellow-breasted Racquet-Tail - Prioniturus flavicans C
A pair were seen at Tangkoko NP on the 26th. This species is listed as Near Threatened by BirdLife (2000).
Golden-mantled Raquet-Tail - Prioniturus platurus platurus C
Up to 20 were seen daily on five dates whilst at Lore Lindu NP.
Blue-backed Parrot - Tanygnathus sumatranus sumatranus C
Around 7 were seen at Tangkoko NP on the 26th and 1 was seen along the road between Tangkoko NP and Manado on the 14th with others heard at night at Dumoga-bone NP.
Great-billed Parrot - Tanygnathus megalorhynchos megalorhynchos C
A single individual was seen in flight at Lake Tolire Besar on Ternate on the 8th.
Large Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot - Loriculus stigmatus C
We saw 2 at the Wuasa forest edge on the 31st, 2 at Tambun on the 11th and 4 near the dam downstream of Toraut on the 12th and 3 along the road between Tangkoko NP and Manado on the 14th.
Small Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot - Loriculus exilis C
A loose flock of around 12 were seen along the road between Tangkoko NP and Manado on the 14th. This species is listed as Near Threatened by BirdLife (2000).
Plaintive Cuckoo - Cacomantis merulinus lanceolatus C
A single individual was seen calling in the small patch of forest behind the Toraut HQ on the 12th.
Rusty-breasted Cuckoo - Cacomantis sepulcralis virescens C
Singles were seen along the Dongi-dongi road in Lore Lindu NP on the 2nd and at Tambun on the 11th.
Black-billed Koel - Eudynamys melanorhyncha melanorhyncha C
We saw around 6 in grassy clearings at Tangkoko NP on the 26th.
Yellow-billed Malkoha - Phaenicophaeus calyorhynchus C
We saw 8 at Tangkoko NP on the 26th and 2 there on the 14th, up to 4 on two dates in the vicinity of Lake Tambine in Lore Lindu NP and up to 2 on 2 dates in the Dumoga-bone NP areas.
Goliath Coucal - Centropus goliath C
We saw a total of 3 just over the ridge-top above KBP on Halmahera on the 6th.
Lesser Coucal - Centropus bengalensis sarasinorum / medius C
Seen on five dates in small numbers being seen at Tangkoko NP, Halmahera, Ternate and Dumoga-bone NP.
Bay Coucal - Centropus celebensis celebensis C
We saw 2 along the beach track at Tangkoko NP on the 26th and JFC saw 1 at Toraut on the 10th.
Sulawesi Masked Owl - Tyto rosenbergii rosenbergii C
A single individual was seen at dusk in a clearing at Tangkoko NP on the 26th with others heard at the Anaso track in Lore Lindu NP and at Toraut.
Sulawesi Scops-Owl - Otus manadensis manadensis C
Singles were seen at dusk and at its daytime roost at Tangkoko NP on the 25th and 27th respectively with others heard at Lore Lindu NP and Dumoga-bone NP.
Sulawesi Scops-Owl in Tangkoko NP
Moluccan Scops-Owl - Otus magicus
A single individual heard at KBP on Halmahera on the 6th.Heinrich’s Nightjar - Eurostopodus diabolicus C
At least 4 were seen from the small bridge at the top section of the Dongi-Dongi road on the 28th and the 31st and 1 was seen along the lower section of the Anaso track on the 29th and 1st. This species is listed as Vulnerable by BirdLife (2000) who state the threats are habitat loss and degradation.
Great Eared Nightjar - Eurostopodus macrotis macropterus C
We saw 4 at Tangkoko NP on the 26th and 3 at Dumoga-bone NP on the 10th.
Large-tailed Nightjar - Caprimulgus macrurus schlegelii C
A single individual was seen along the old road at KBP on the 7th.
Large-tailed Nightjar along the old road at KBP.
At Tangkoko NP 3 were seen at dusk on the 25th and 2 the following evening.
Uniform Swiftlet - Collocalia vanikorensis waigeuensis C
We identified 5 on Ternate on the 3rd, 6 on Halmahera on the 6th and 50 at the Lake Tolire Besar on Ternate on the 8th and up to 200 were seen on two dates at Toraut.
Moluccan Swiftlet - Collocalia infuscata sororum / infuscate C
A single individual was identified at Tangkoko NP on the 26th, around 25 were seen at the Wuasa forest on the 31st and 10 were seen at Lake Tolire Besar on Ternate on the 8th.
Glossy Swiftlet - Collocalia esculenta manadensis / spilura C
Seen on fourteen dates in fair numbers being seen at Tangkoko NP, Lore Lindu NP and on Halmahera.
Purple Needletail - Hirundapus celebensis C
A pair put on a fine display for around an hour over Lake Tambine in Lore Lindu NP on the 31st.
Grey-rumped Tree-Swift - Hemiprocne longipennis wallacii C
Seen on eight dates in fair numbers being seen at Tangkoko NP, the Wuasa forest and in the Dumoga-bone areas.
Moustached Tree-Swift - Hemiprocne mystacea confirmata C
Seen on Halmahera where a pair were seen at KBP on the 4th and 5 were seen in the Sidangoli mangroves on the 8th.
Green-backed Kingfisher - Actenoides monachus monachus C
This superb species was only seen at Tangkoko NP where 2 were seen on the 26th and 3 on the 14th. This species is listed as Near Threatened by BirdLife (2000).
Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher - Cittura cyanotis cyanotis C
Another superb species only seen at Tangkoko NP where we saw 2 on the 26th, 1 on the 27th and 4 on the 14th. This species is listed as Near Threatened by BirdLife (2000).
Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher in Tangkoko NP.
Ruddy Kingfisher - Halcyon coromanda rufa CA single individual was seen at Tangkoko NP on the 14th.
Blue-and-white Kingfisher - Todirhamphus diops C
A single female was seen at KBP on Halmahera on the 6th.
Sombre Kingfisher - Todirhamphus funebris C
A stunning individual was sat along the roadside in the ridge forest above KBP on Halmahera on the 4th with another heard along the Standardwing trail at KBP. This species is listed as Vulnerable by BirdLife (2000) who state the threats as habitat loss and degradation.
Sombre Kingfisher along the Standardwing trail at KBP
Collared Kingfisher - Halcyon chloris chloris C
Seen on nine dates in fair numbers being seen at Tangkoko NP, near Palu, the Sidangoli mangroves on Halmahera, the Ternate lakes and the Dumoga-bone NP.
Sacred Kingfisher - Halcyon sanctus sanctus C
A single individual was seen at the Lake Tolire Besar on Ternate on the 8th.
Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher - Ceyx fallax fallax C
A single individual was seen at Tangkoko NP on the 26th. This species is listed as Near Threatened by BirdLife (2000).
Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher in Tangkoko NP
Up to 2 were seen daily on three dates along the river at Toraut and 2 were seen at a large lake near Ambang on the 13th.
Blue-tailed Bee-Eater - Merops superciliosus philippinus C
We saw 10 between Palu and Lore Lindu NP on the 28th, 2 at the Wuasa paddies on the 31st and 2 at Palu airport on the 3rd.
Rainbow Bee-Eater - Merops ornatus C
Around 50 were seen at Tangkoko NP on the 26th with several high-flying parties apparently moving over, up to 4 seen on three dates on Halmahera and 2 on our return visit to Tangkoko NP on the 14th.
Purple-bearded Bee-eater - Meropogon forsteni C
In Lore Lindu NP a pair were seen along the mid-section of the Anaso track close to a nest-hole on the 29th, 1 was seen along the road at the base of the Anaso track on the 30th and a pair were seen near the bottom of the Anaso track on the 1st. Stunning.
Purple-bearded Bee-eater along the Anaso track.
We saw singles, perhaps the same individual, whilst ascending and then descending the volcano at Tangkoko NP on the 27th.
Dollarbird - Eurystomus orientalis C
Around 5 were seen in the Sidangoli mangroves on Halmahera on the 8th.
Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill - Penelopides exarhatus exarhatus C
A pair were seen at Tangkoko NP on the 26th and 1 was seen along the road from Tangkoko NP to Manado on the 14th.
Knobbed Hornbill - Aceros cassidix C
We saw a pair in the lowland forest at Tangkoko NP on the 26th, around 25 the day we climbed the volcano at Tangkoko NP on the 27th, 2 at Toraut on the 10th and around 8 on our return visit to Tangkoko NP on the 14th.
Knobbed Hornbill in Tangkoko NP.
Up to 12 were seen daily on four dates at KBP on Halmahera.
Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker - Dendrocopos temminckii C
Seen at Lore Lindu generally along the road from Lake Tambine to Dongi-dongi with singles seen on the 30th and 31st and 4 seen on the 2nd.
Ashy Woodpecker - Mulleripicus fulvus fulvus C
We saw 3 at Tangkoko NP on the 26th and 2 there on the 14th and 1 in Lore Lindu NP on the 31st.
Ivory-breasted Pitta - Pitta maxima maxima C
Heard daily around KBP on Halmahera with singles seen to fly past us with an incredible gliding Butterfly-like flight along a stream just after dawn on the 5th and the same or another individual seen later the same day in the same general area for around 20 minutes both perched high in trees and hopping around on the ground. Stunning.
Pacific Swallow - Hirundo tahitica javanica C
Seen on twelve dates in good numbers being seen at Manado, Tangkoko NP, near Palu, Ternate and Dumoga-bone NP.
Caerulean Cuckoo-Shrike - Coracina temminckii rileyi C
Only seen along the road between Lake Tambine and dongi-Dongi in Lore Lindu NP where we saw 1 on the 28th, 8 on the 30th and 2 on the 2nd.
White-rumped Cuckoo-Shrike - Coracina leucopygia C
Only seen at Tangkoko NP where we saw 2 in the clearings on the 25th and 4 the next day.
White-bellied Cuckoo-Shrike - Coracina papuensis melanolora C
We saw just 4 in the Sidangoli mangroves on the 8th.
Halmahera Cuckoo-Shrike - Coracina parvula C
Singles were seen along the road on the ridge above KBP on Halmahera on the 4th and the 6th.
Pygmy Cuckoo-Shrike - Coracina abbotti C
In Lore Lindu NP stunning males were seen along the road near Lake Tambine on the 30th and near Dongi-Dongi on the 2nd.
Sulawesi Cicadabird - Coracina morio morio C
A party of 4 were seen at the edge of the Wuasa forest on the 31st and 1 was seen near Toraut on the 12th.
Sulawesi Triller - Lalage leucopygialis C
We saw 2 along the beach track at Tangkoko NP on the 26th and 1 near the edge of the Wuasa forest on the 31st.
Rufous-bellied Triller - Lalage aurea C
On Halmahera up to 4 were seen daily on three dates around KBP.
Sooty-headed Bulbul - Pycnonotus aurigaster aurigaster C
Around 10 were seen at Tangkoko NP on the 26th, up to 4 were seen on both journeys between Palu and Lore Lindu NP and 2 were seen on the drive from Manado to Dumoga-bone on the 9th.
Golden Bulbul - Ixos affinis chloris C
Up to 4 were seen daily on three dates around KBP on Halmahera.
Sulawesi Drongo - Dicrurus montanus C
At Lore Lindu NP up to 4 were seen daily on four dates often being encountered around the Lake Tambine area.
Spangled Drongo - Dicrurus bracteatus atrocaeruleus C
Up to 2 were seen daily on four dates around KBP on Halmahera.
Hair-crested Drongo - Dicrurus hottentottus leucops C
Up to 6 were seen daily on three dates at Tangkoko NP and up to 4 were seen on two dates at Tambun.
Dusky-brown Oriole - Oriolus phaeochromus C
Singles were seen along the Standardwing trail at KBP on Halmahera on the 5th and 6th.
Black-naped Oriole - Oriolus chinensis celebensis C
Seen on six dates in small numbers being encountered at Tangkoko NP, Lore Lindu NP and Dumoga-bone NP.
Slender-billed Crow - Corvus enca celebensis C
Seen on seven dates in small numbers being encountered at Tangkoko NP, between Lore Lindu NP and Palu and the Dumoga-bone areas.
Piping Crow - Corvus typicus C
A party of around 10 were seen at Lake Tambine in Lore Lindu NP on the 30th and were heard in the same area the following day.
A distant Piping Crow at Lake Tambine in Lore Lindu NP
On Halmahera we saw 6 around KBP on the 6th and 2 the following day. Impressive.
Torresian Crow - Corvus orru orru C
A party of 6 were seen at Lake Tolire Besar on Ternate on the 8th.
Paradise Crow - Lycocorax pyrrhopterus pyrrhopterus C
Around 5 were seen at KBP on Halmahera on the 4th and 2 there on the 6th.
Standardwing Bird Of Paradise - Semioptera wallacei C
A major disappointment of the trip was the very poor views we obtained of this species at KBP on Halmahera with DC glimpsing a male in what appeared its display flight on the 5th with JFC subsequently seeing it moving around in the canopy above us, the same individual being heard the following morning, and 2 together seen very briefly as they nearly flew into us and seemingly landed directly above us but alas we failed to relocate them, on the 7th.
Sulawesi Babbler - Trichastoma celebense C
DC saw 1 at Tangkoko NP on the 25th where 4 were seen the following day, with 6 seen in the forest at Tambun on the 11th and 2 at Toraut the following day.
Malia - Malia grata stresemanni C
Only seen in the Lake Tambine area of Lore Lindu NP where up to 10 were seen daily on four dates.
Geomalia - Geomalia heinrichi C
Probably the highlight of the trip was a stunning individual on the 29th that appeared on the Anaso track in front of us and then ran at speed away from us rounding a corner in the track. As we chased after it we saw it stood in the middle of the track before it disappeared into the vegetation at the side of the track. After c.5 minutes it re-appeared onto the track before again moving into the same area of vegetation and again repeated this performance. It was last seen as it ran at incredible speed across the track to disappear. Its affinities are uncertain but surely this species is deserving of its own Family. We all agreed on its Ground-Roller - like appearance. This species is listed as Near Threatened by BirdLife (2000).
Great Shortwing - Heinrichia calligyna C
Along the Anaso track at Lore Lindu NP a male was seen on the 29th and 2 males and a female were seen on the 1st. Superb.
Sulawesi Thrush - Cataponera turdoides C
After a lot of searching we eventually found a single individual in a fruiting tree along the road not far from the base of the Anaso track in Lore Lindu NP on the 2nd.
Pied Chat - Saxicola caprata albonotata C
A pair were seen at the Wuasa paddies on the 31st.
Flyeater - Gerygone sulphurea flaveola
JFC saw 1 near Lake Tambine in Lore Lindu NP on the 2nd.
Chestnut-backed Bush-Warbler - Bradypterus castaneus castaneus C
At Lore Lindu NP singles were seen on four dates with most encounters along the road at the base of the Anaso track. They would react to pishing though it still often proved difficult to obtain good views.
Mountain Tailorbird - Orthotomus cuculatus C
At Lore Lindu NP up to 4 were seen daily on four dates.
Sulawesi Leaf-Warbler - Phylloscopus sarasinorum nesophilus C
At Lore Lindu NP up to 5 were seen daily on four dates and 5 were seen at Amabang on the 13th.
Zitting Cisticola - Cisticola juncidis constans C
A single individual was seen and heard in the Wuasa paddies on the 31st.
Golden-headed Cisticola - Cisticola exilis rustica C
At Amabang we saw 2 singing males whilst walking through the cultivated area between the road and the forest.
Island Verditer Flycatcher - Eumyias panayensis septentrionalis C
In Lore Lindu NP up to 4 were seen daily on three dates and at Ambang 6 were seen on the 13th.
Little Pied Flycatcher - Ficedula westermanni westermanni C
In Lore Lindu NP up to 2 were seen daily on three dates.
Blue-fronted Flycatcher - Cyornis hoevelli C
In Lore Lindu NP up to 2 were seen daily on four dates.
Blue-fronted Flycatcher at the Lore Lindu N.Pk.
At Ambang we saw 2 on the 13th including a singing male not far from having entered the forest. This species is listed as Vulnerable by BirdLife International (2000) who state the threats as habitat loss and degradation.
Sulawesi (Mangrove) Blue Flycatcher - Cyornis omissus omissus C
Around 5 were seen at the Wuasa forest on the 31st.
Sulawesi (Mangrove) Blue Flycatcher at the Wuasa forest
Seen on six dates in small numbers being encountered at Tangkoko NP, the Wuasa forest and at Toraut.
White-naped Monarch - Monarcha pileatus pileatus
JFC saw 1 along the Standardwing trail at KBP on Halmahera on the 6th.
Spectacled Monarch - Monarcha trivirgatus bimaculatus C
Only seen around KBP on Halmahera where 4 were seen on the 6th and 2 on the 7th.
Slaty Flycatcher - Myiagra galeata galeata C
Only seen around KBP on Halmahera where 1 was seen on the 5th, 4 on the 6th and 1 on the 7th.
Willie Wagtail - Rhipidura leucophrys melaleuca C
Around 25 were seen in the Sidangoli mangroves and on Ternate on the 8th.
Rusty-bellied Fantail - Rhipidura teysmanni toradja C
At Lore Lindu NP up to 4 were seen on four dates and JFC saw 1 at Ambang on the 13th.
Citrine Flycatcher - Culicicapa helianthea helianthea C
A single individual was seen on the volcano at Tangkoko NP on the 27th, up to 5 were seen daily on five dates at Lore Lindu NP and 1 was seen at Ambang on the 13th.
Yellow-flanked Whistler - Hylocitrea bonensis bonensis C
At Lore Lindu NP up to 2 were seen daily on four dates with most encounters along the road near Lake Tambine.
Yellow-flanked Whistler at the Lore Lindu NP
At Lore Lindu NP up to 4 were seen daily on five dates.
White-breasted Wood-Swallow - Artamus leucorynchus albiventer / leucopygialis C
Seen on seven dates in fair numbers being encountered at Lore Lindu NP, the Sidangoli mangroves on Halmahera, Dumoga-bone NP and Tangkoko NP.
Ivory-backed Wood-Swallow - Artamus monachus C
Singles were seen whilst descending from the volcano at Tangkoko NP on the 27th, near Lake Tambine in Lore Lindu NP on the30th and 31st and 2 were seen across the river from Toraut at Dumoga-bone NP on the 11th.
Moluccan Starling - Aplonis mysolensis mysolensis C
A party of 6 were seen just over the ridge above KBP on Halmahera on the 6th.
Short-tailed Starling - Aplonis minor C
A party of 4 were seen near Lake Tambine in Lore Lindu NP on the 2nd.
Asian Glossy Starling - Aplonis panayensis panayensis C
A party of 15 were seen in paddies adjacent to the Wuasa forest on the 31st.
Metallic Starling - Aplonis metallica metallica C
Up to 25 were seen on three dates on Halmahera.
Sulawesi Crested Myna - Basilornis celebensis C
We saw 4 in the Lake Tambine area of Lore Lindu NP on the 30th, 2 in the Wuasa forest on the 31st and 2 along the road between Tangkoko NP and Manado on the 14th.
White-necked Myna - Streptocitta albicollis torquata C
We saw a pair at Tangkoko NP on the 26th, 1 in the Wuasa forest on the 31st, a pair at Tambun on the 11th and 1 at Toraut on the 12th.
Fiery-browed Starling - Enodes erythrophris C
Commoner than expected with up to 20 seen daily on six dates in Lore Lindu NP and a party of 6 seen at Ambang on the 13th.
Grosbeak Starling - Scissirostrum dubium C
Seen on seven dates often in large numbers with colonies seen at Tangkoko NP, Wuasa forest, Tambun and Dumoga-bone NP.
Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater - Myza celebensis celebensis C
Up to 5 were seen daily on five dates at Lore Lindu NP often being encountered in the Lake Tambine area.
Greater Sulawesi Honeyeater - Myza sarasinorum C
We saw 5 along the Anaso track in Lore Lindu NP on the 29th and 1 there on the 1st.
White-streaked Friarbird - Melitograis gilolensis C
A single individual was seen on the ridge above KBP on Halmahera on the 6th and JFC saw 2 at KBP the following day.
Sulawesi Myzomela - Myzomela chloroptera charlotta C
Up to 2 were seen daily on three dates in Lore Lindu NP.
Brown-throated Sunbird - Anthreptes malacensis celebensis C
We saw 4 at Tangkoko NP on the 26th and 2 at Dumoga-bone NP on the 12th.
Black Sunbird - Nectarinia sericea auriceps / grayi C
Up to 2 were seen daily on five dates on Halmahera and 1 was seen at Tambun on the 10th.
Olive-backed Sunbird - Cinnyris jugularis plateni / frenatus C
Seen on twelve dates in fair numbers being encountered at Tangkoko NP, near Palu, on Halmahera and in Dumoga-bone NP.
Crimson Sunbird - Aethopyga siparaja C
A single male was seen on the edge of the Wuasa forest on the 31st.
Yellow-sided Flowerpecker - Dicaeum aureolimbatum aureolimbatum C
We saw 1 at Tangkoko NP on the 26th, 1 near Palu on the 28th, 6 in the Wuasa forest on the 31st, 3 at Tambun on the 10th and 2 at Ambang on the 13th.
Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker - Dicaeum nehrkorni C
At Lore Lindu NP we saw 1 on the 28th and 2 on the 30th and at Ambang we saw1 on the 13th.
Flame-breasted Flowerpecker - Dicaeum erythrothorax schistaceiceps C
A single immature was seen just beyond the ridge-top above KBP on Halmahera on the 6th.
Grey-sided Flowerpecker - Dicaeum celebicum celebicum C
We saw 2 at Tangkoko NP on the 26th, 2 at Dongi-Dongi on the 28th, 8 at the Wuasa forest on the 31st and 2 at Tambun on the 11th.
Mountain White-eye - Zosterops montanus montanus C
We saw 6 along the Anaso track in Lore Lindu NP on the 29th, 2 near Lake Tambine on the 2nd and 4 at Ambang on the 13th.
Lemon-bellied White-eye - Zosterops chloris C
We saw 6 in scrub alongside a river between Palu and Lore Lindu NP on the 28th.
Black-fronted White-eye - Zosterops atrifrons atrifrons C
Seen on eight dates in fair numbers being encountered at Tangkoko NP, Lore Lindu NP, Tambun and Ambang.
Streak-headed Dark-eye - Lophozosterops squamiceps C
Only seen in Lore Lindu NP where 1 was seen along the Anaso track on the 29th, 5 were seen along the road at the base of the Anaso track on the 30th and 1 in the same area on the 2nd.
Tree Sparrow - Passer montanus malaccensis C
Seen on twelve dates in good numbers being encountered at Manado, near Palu, Wuasa, Ternate and at the Dumoga-bone areas.
Blue-faced Parrot-Finch - Erythrura trichroa sanfordi C
DC saw 1 near the bottom of the Anaso track in Lore Lindu NP on the 1st.
Black-faced Munia - Lonchura molucca C
Around 10 were seen between Palu and Lore Lindu NP on the 28th, 2 were seen at the Wuasa paddies on the 31st and 2 were seen at Tambun on the 11th.
Scaly-breasted Munia - Lonchura punctulata particeps C
Around 8 were seen in the paddies adjacent to the Wuasa forest on the 31st.
Chestnut Munia - Lonchura atricapilla jagori C
Seen on six dates in good numbers being encountered at Tangkoko NP, between Palu and Lore Lindu NP, Wuasa, Tambun and the fields below Ambang.
Chestnut Munia at Lore Lindu NP
We saw around 50 at a river crossing between Palu and Lore Lindu NP on the 28th and JFC saw 2 in the same general area on the 2nd.
Mountain Serin - Serinus estherae renatae C
We saw around 12 at the summit of the Anaso track on the 29th including some fine orange-red males.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Firstly to Aidan Kelly and Howard & Thais Armstrong who kindly invited us along on their trip. Terry Cooper, Richard Fairbank, Jon Hornbuckle, Jon Riley and Barry Wright all gave us pre-trip assistance and/or advice. Jeremy & Ninny Barnes of Safari Tours in Manado info@manadosafaris.com provided an excellent efficient service booking all our internal flight arrangements and organising our first visit to Tangkoko NP and our stay at the good value Hotel Minahassa in Manado, Royke Mantana lorelindu@yahoo.com who organised and accompanied us to Lore Lindu NP, Dumoga-bone NP and on our second visit to Tangkoko NP, Darwin Sumang dsumang@yahoo.com who quoted for a trip to Lore Lindu NP, and to Iskandar Abdullah kamu_is@yahoo.com who organised and accompanied us during our time on Halmahera and Ternate. Ed Hagen, Angus Lamont and Kenneth Kee all kindly gave us advice on a proposed stopover in Singapore.
Sunset on Halmahera.
Other essential books and articles included:
Birdwatching Areas Gunung Ambang Nature Reserve, North Sulawesi, Jon Riley, OBC Bulletin 32.
Birding Indonesia A Bird-watcher’s Guide to the World’s Largest Archipelago, Paul Jepson, Periplus Editions 1997.
Where to watch birds in Asia, Nigel Wheatley, Helm 1996.
A Guide to the Birds of Wallacea, Coates, Bishop & Gardner, Dove 1997.
Birds of the World, A Checklist, Clements, Pica Press 2000.
BirdLife International (2000) Threatened Birds of the World. Lynx Edicions.
