Birding Trips: Polynesian & Pitcairn Island Trip Report

POLYNESIAN & PITCAIRN ISLAND TRIP REPORT

4TH JUNE 2006 TO 21 JUNE 2006.

JOHN COOPER

ITINERARY

4 June Leave Heathrow to Papeete, Tahiti on Air New Zealand flight via Los

Angeles.

5th June Arrive Papeete, Tahiti at 05.40 hrs, transferred to Hotel Mandarin before

departing with group to Papehue Valley for morning birding. Then drove

along coastal route and explored another inland wooded valley just in

from the coast.

Arriving at the Papehue Valley Nature Reserve, Tahiti.

The Swiftlet gorge in Papehue Valley, Tahiti with birders at the bottom.

6th June Early flight at 05.50 hrs from Papeete, Tahiti via Hao Island to Mangareva

Island (Gambier Islands). Walked along Island road, before boarding the

“Bounty Bay” catamaran, owned by Pacific Expeditions. Departed

Mangareva Island at 16.30 hrs to start the journey to Pitcairn Island.

Our plane from Tahiti to Mangareva Island

Our flight stop over at Hao Island. (JFC)

Flying away from Halo Island (JFC)

Mangareva Island. (JFC)

The Bounty Bay

The "Bounty Bay" crew

The "Bounty Bay" with the boat crew and the birding crew. (JFC)

Leaving Mangareva Harbour on the "Bounty Bay" (JFC)

Sunset as we left Mangareva Island (JFC)

7th June All day at sea heading towards Pitcairn Island.

8th June All day at sea heading towards Pitcairn Island arriving at mid-night.

9th June All day birding on Pitcairn Island, departing in the evening for Henderson

Island.

Four views of Pitcairn Island as we were going into land. (JFC)

The Landing Quay on Pitcairn (JFC)

Wild flowers on Pitcairn Island (JFC).

Departing Pitcairn Island (JFC)

10th June All morning at sea heading towards Henderson Island arriving at mid-day.

Toured around the island, before anchoring off Henderson Island for the night.

11th June Anchored just off-shore from Henderson Island all morning waiting for tide,

before landing on Henderson for just 2 hours. Left Henderson Island

around 17.00 hrs towards 40-mile reef on our way back to Pitcairn Island.

Arriving at Henderson Island (JFC)

Large waves breaking over the beach (JFC)

Our landing beach on Henderson Island.(JFC)

Scenic view taken on Henderson Island. (CC)

The Bounty Bay anchored off Henderson Island. (JFC)

JFC's tidy lower bunk on the Bounty Bay. (JFC)

12th June All day at sea, chummed over the 40-mile reef and then continued towards

Pitcairn Island arriving at 17.00 hrs where we anchored overnight.

13th June Anchored all morning off Pitcairn Island, while we took on fresh water,

departing late morning and headed out towards Oeno Atoll.

14th June Arrived Oeno Atoll at 2.00 am. Too rough to land and spent the day

anchored off Oeno before departing after dusk for Morane Island.

Arriving at Oeno Atoll but just too rough to land on shore

Some impressive waves coming over the reef at Oeno Atoll (CC)

Oeno Atoll with its breeding sea-birds. (CC)

JFC getting a good sun-tan off Oeno Atoll.

15th June All day at sea heading towards to Tuamotu Islands.

16th June All day at sea, explored over the Portland Banks, which are in places

just 20 metres deep. Chummed this area.

17^th June Continued our slow progress to Morane Island, finally arriving at 15.00 hrs.

Toured along the coast of the Island and anchored just offshore for the night.

Morane Islands home to the Tuamotu Sandpiper (JFC)

Proved to be just too rough to land over the coral reef which surrounds the island. (JFC)

Pterdromas were flying all the time over the Islands. (JFC)

We anchored overnight-sunset over the Pacific (JFC)

18th JuneToo rough to land. So we again toured along the coast birding from the boat.

Left Morane Island for our journey back to the Gambier Islands at 11.00 hrs.

19th June Arrived back to Mangareva Island at 11.00 hrs and walked along coast road.

Cruised the lagoon from 15.30 hrs until after dark visiting several nearby Islands.

Anchored in harbour of Mangareva Island overnight.

Returning back to Mangareva Harbour(JFC)

Cruise out into the Gambier Lagoon with offshore Islands. (JFC)

20th June Disembarked from the “Bounty Bay” at 09.00 hrs. Caught flight back to Papeete,

Tahiti and the Air New Zealand flight back to Heathrow via Los Angeles,

where we saw Western Gulls. Arriving back at Heathrow at 10.30 hrs BST on the

22nd June.

The Bounty Bay arriving back in one piece to Mangareva Harbour. (JFC)

JFC with Chris Gaskell and others disembarking from the Bounty Bay

Acknowledgements: I would like to thank Chris Gaskill for organising this extended pelagic, Chris Collins

(CC) for his company and the use of many of his superb photographs, and my good friend Tony Quinn for

the many hours we spent together and for the many discussions concerning Pterdroma identification.

SYSTEMASTIC LIST.

Wandering Albatross – Diomedea exulans

A juvenile, probably 2nd/3rd calendar year bird, circled around our boat for some 15

minutes on the 13th giving excellent close views.

Considered Vulnerable by Birdlife International (2000), due mainly to longline fisheries.

Juvenile Wandering Albatross near Pitcairn Island (JFC)

Juvenile type Wandering Albatross-always an exciting event seeing an Albatross

and we were probably lucky seeing a Wandering so far North. (CC)

Northern Giant Petrel – Macronectes halli

1-2 seen on the 14th with the darker swollen tip to the bill well seen, on one of the birds,

but the second bird was a sickly looking immature all dark brown bird with a broken leg,

which was attracted to our chumming. There was some debate on its identification as the

whole of the bill appeared ivory white coloured with just a thin blackish edge to the tip of

the bill.

Northern Giant Petrels (CC)

Immature Northern Giant Petrel with a dead Red-tailed Tropicbird.(CC)

Tahiti Petrel – Pterodroma rostrata

This large, long-winged, large billed, Pterodroma was recorded on 4 dates as follows:

5 on the 7th, 9 on the 8th, 2 on the 10th with 1 on the 16th.

Tahiti Petrels taken after we left Mangareva Island (JFC)

Catching the evening sun-light

The all dark upper-side

Tahiti Petrels (CC)
These pictures shows the long straight wings and distinctive black under-wings with a pale area
running down the centre of the under-wings. The flight is also distinctive being slower and more

languid than Phoenix Petrel, with very straight wings.

Phoenix Petrel – Pterodroma alba

As with Herald Petrel listed below, much debate took place on the identification between

Phoenix and Herald Petrels, with fair numbers of birds seen showing a small amount of

white at the base on the primaries on the under-wings and it was suggested these birds

may be an unknown eastern race of Phoenix, although I considered many were probably

Heralds. I only felt certain of 3 birds, which I considered to be Phoenix, 1 on the 13th,

1 on the 14th, and 1 on the 15th. These three were seen well at close range with virtually

all black under-wings, one showing a good white leading edge to the underwing (see the first

picture below), and the others had a pale area on the underside of the primaries

which can be seen on the other pictures below. Otherwise they had black heads and

throats but lacking the long wings of Tahiti Petrel with the typical Pterdroma flight,

unlike Tahiti which has a much slower languid flight. Tahiti also shows in strong light

a narrow pale area running along the centre of the underwing.

Considered Vulnerable by Birdlife International (2000), due to its small breeding range

and predation by cats and rats.

Phoenix Petrel showing the extensive white of the under-side of the

fore-wing pale area at the base of the primaries and the very black

and white contrasting plumage.

This Phoenix Petrel is showing a paler throat, pale at the base of the under-primaries

and still a reasonable white stripe on the inner fore-wing. Again the plumage

looking very black and white.(CC)

A good candidate for a Phoenix Petrel (JFC).

Murphy’s Petrel – Pterodroma ultima

The common Pterodroma with excellent numbers seen as follows:

One on the 7th, 7 on the 8th, 50 on Henderson Island on the 10th with 30 there on the 11th,

20 on the 12th, 6 on the 13th, at least 600 on Oeno Atoll on the 14th, 4 on the 15th, 8 on the

16th, 100 on Morane Island on the 17th with 40 there on the 18th and finally one on the

19th. This species is generally a dark grey looking bird with a blacker W on the wings

with a large pale patch at the base of the primaries on the under-wings. All day long,

there were at least 500-700 Pterdromas in flight over Oeno, many were Murphy’s and

probably many more were actually seen then logged by myself.

Various Murphy's Petrels (JFC)

Various Murphy's Petrels. (CC)

Murphy’s Petrel – An all-dark Petrel, with a slightly paler body, pale chin and distinctive large pale flashes on the under primaries. It can Show the all-dark scaly upper-parts with the silvery trailing edge along the secondaries when this is caught by the sun. When the sun catches the upper-wings, it can show distinctive silvery patches. It also shows the distinctive pale face, which can be seen from some distance.

Kermadec Petrel – Pterodroma neglecta

Excellent numbers of all three colour phases were seen as follows:

3 on the 7th & 8th, 4 on the 9th, 80 on the 10th at Henderson Island, 50 on the 11th, also at

Henderson Island, 5 on the 12th, 500 on the 14th over the Oeno Atoll, 2 on the 15th, 1 on

the 16th, 6 on the 17th and finally 1 on the 18th. On two occasions it behaved very skua

like, chasing terns etc for food. I found the white on the under-wing to be variable with

a number having the white extending well onto the secondaries, and I also found the

white leading edge on the under-wing to be far less conspicuous than on Herald Petrel.

Light and Intermediate forms of Kermadec Petrels (JFC).

Various light and immediate phases Kermadec Petrels (CC)

Various dark phase Kermadec Petrels (CC).

Kermadec Petrels, of all three colour phases, shows the distinctive white patch at the base of the upper primaries, which can usually be seen from some distance and will quickly clinch the identification.

Herald Petrel – Pterdroma heraldica

Very confusing species, with many birds seen had far less extensive white on the

under-wings and some observers felt some of these birds may be an eastern race of the

Phoenix Petrel, although I did not subscribe to this. Many of these individuals were left

unidentified, although in my opinion were probably Heralds. Heralds usually showed a

well marked white stripe on the leading edge of the under-wing, which was more

striking than in Kermadec.

Numbers of identified Herald Petrels were as follows:

2 on the 7th, 4 on the 10th, 5 on the 12th, 50 on the 14th at Henderson Island, 1 on the 16th,

with 6 on the 17th.

Various lightphase Herald Petrels (JFC)

Good discussions on the identification of Herald Petrel and it is certainly not

easy. The four above images all show extensive white at the base of the under-primaries

and also a white leading edge to the under-forewing.

Light Phase Herald Petrels

Considered to be a dark phase Herald Petrel

Henderson Petrel – Pterdroma atrata

This recent split from Herald Petrel was seen as follows:

2 on the 7th, 100 on the 10th at Henderson Island with 30 the following day, 3 on the 12th,

2 on the 14th & 15th. Once this species was seen well, it was quite distinctive, appearing

dark brown all over with a silver area running along the centre of the under-wing, not to

dissimilar to a Sooty Shearwater’s under-wing. To my eyes, the bird was of finer

proportions with more slender wings than a Herald Petrel, with a far less distinctive white

leading edge to the under-wings.

Considered Endangered by Birdlife International (2000), owing to predation by rats and

very small breeding range.

Various Henderson Petrels taken at Henderson & Oeno Islands (CC).

White Necked Petrel – Pterodroma cervicalis

Just two singles seen, of this stunning Pterdroma. A moulting bird found sat on the sea

and then departed on the 7th, and another one on the 10th.

Considered Vulnerable by Birdlife International (2000), because the population is

restricted to two or three small islands.

White-necked Petrel- Just 2 of these spectacular Pterodromas were seen. (CC)

Sooty Shearwater – Puffinus griseus

Just a single bird seen at very close range, sat on the sea before flying off on the 8th.

Surprisingly, only this Sooty Shearwater was the only one seen on this trip (CC).

Christmas Shearwater – Puffinus nativitatis

A single bird passed by the boat at 20 metres range at dusk on the 16th.

Tropical Shearwater – Puffinus bailloni dichrous

A single bird found sat feeding on the sea on the 16th, before departing over the Portland

Banks, and up to 40 came in at dusk to an island in the Gambier Lagoon on the 19th.

When we visited this area in 2006, all these small shearwaters were still classified as Audubon Shearwater

under various sub-species.

Good white flanks lacking any brownish tinge.

Showing distinctive white-tabs to the sides of the upper rump.

Good white bars across the tips of the coverts and

long wedge-shape tail.

Tropical Shearwater over the Portland Banks (CC).

White Bellied Storm Petrel – Fregetta grallaria titan

One seen on the 8th and the 12th with 3 on the 16th but only distant views obtained.

Polynesian Storm Petrel – Nesofregetta fulignosa

A single bird was attracted to chumming on the 12th. First saw flying quite fast

skimming over the top of the waves. After losing it for about 5 minutes, I then picked it

out coming out of a trough at 30 metres range. It was now flying quite slowly towards us,

and the white throat, large dark breast band and reminder white under-parts together with

broad based brownish grey wings were clearly seen. One of the highlights of the trip.

Considered Vulnerable by Birdlife International (2000), due to a small population of less

than 10,000 birds.

Red Tailed Tropicbird – Phaethon rubricauda

Recorded in fair numbers on 9 dates. It was common on Pitcairn Island. At Oeno Atoll where

20 were seen, the Greater Frigatebirds were seen chasing the Tropicbirds and catching them

by a wing and forcing them down on to the sea. One was found dead floating on the surface.

It was occasionally seen quite a way out to sea, unlike White Tailed Tropicbird which we only

saw flying over the wooded islands.

The Caves, Pitcairn Island-breeding site of the Red-tailed Tropicbird (JFC)

Red-tailed Tropicbird on Pitcairn Island (JFC)

Juvenile Red-tailed Tropicbird on the beach on Henderson Island. (JFC)

Red-tailed Tropicbirds over Pitcairn Island. (CC)

Juvenile Red-tailed Tropicbird found on the beach on Henderson Island(CC).

White Tailed Tropicbird – Phaethon lepturus

Twenty were seen on Tahiti Island on the 5th many flying in the forests. Four were seen on the

6th and 2 on the 19th both in the forests on Mangareva Island. Unlike the Red Tailed Tropicbird,

which was often seen out to sea, this species was only seen on the Island and not in the open ocean.

Masked Booby – Sula dactylatra

Recorded in fair numbers on 8 dates with a maximum of 70 on the 14th.

Juvenile Masked Booby off Henderson Island. (JFC).

Juvenile Masked Booby on the beach at Henderson Island.(JFC)

Adult Masked Booby on Henderson Island.(JFC)

Adult Masked Boobies (CC)

Immature type Masked Boobies (CC).

Odd breeding pairs were found on Henderson Island. (CC)

Red Footed Booby – Sula sula

The commonest Booby, recorded on 9 dates with a daily maximum of 50 on the 14th & 17th.

Adult white tailed Red-footed Booby (JFC).

Adult brown tailed, brown colour phased Red-footed Boobies (JFC)

Adult White tailed Red-footed Boobies (CC).

Adult Red-footed Booby of the brown tailed and brown colour phase. (CC).

Brown Booby – Sula leucogaster

Singles recorded on the 10th, 11th & 12th, around Henderson Island where it does not normally

occur and 40 seen on the 19th out in the Gambier Lagoon where it was breeding on some of

the islands.

Adult Brown Booby over Henderson Island. (JFC)

Brown Boobies in the Gambier Lagoon where it does breed. (CC).

Greater Frigatebird – Fregata minor palmerstoni

Recorded in good numbers on 8 dates but virtually always associated near land. It was only seen

out to sea on a couple of occasions. Daily maximum, of 50 on the 9th on Pitcairn Island.

Juvenile Greater Frigatebirds over the Oeno Atoll (JFC)

Adult Female Frigatebird at Pitcairn Island

Juvenile Great Frigatebird at Pitcairn Island (CC)

Lesser Frigatebird - Fregata ariel
Just a single bird recorded.

Juvenile type Lesser Frigatebird, our only one of the trip. (CC)

Pacific Reef Heron – Egretta sacra

One seen on the 5th on Tahiti, 4 on the 17th and 2 on the 18th on Morane Island, which included

both white and dark colour phases.

Swamp Harrier – Circus approximans

Just a single bird seen on Tahiti, on the 5th.

Henderson Island Crake – Porzana atra

Three of these flightless crakes were found in the forests on Henderson Island on the 11th. Excellent

views obtained, with one searching for insects by flicking dead leaves up into the air in the manner of

a Pitta. Superb!!

Considered Vulnerable by Birdlife International (2000), as it is only found on Henderson Island and is

flightless.

Habitat of the Henderson Island Crake

Feeding by flicking up leaves

Henderson Island Crake - 1 of 3 seen on Henderson Island. (CC)

Pacific Golden Plover – Pluvialis fulva

A party of 8 were seen from the plane as we landed on Hao Island en-route to Mangareva Island on the 6th.

Bristle Thighed Curlew – Numenius tahitensis

On Henderson Island, 10 were seen on the beach on the 10th with 30 there on the 11th. Four were

seen on the 17th on Morane Island, with a single here on the 18th.

Considered Vulnerable by Birdlife International (2000), due to its very small population

Of around 7,000 birds.

Bristle Thighed Curlews on Henderson Island. (JFC)

Bristle-thighed Curlew on Henderson Island (CC).

On this last picture you can clearly see the so called bristles hanging down over the legs.

Wandering Tattler – Heteroscelus incanus

Five seen on Mangareva Island on the 6th with 1 there on the 19th & 20th. Singles seen on Pitcairn

Island on the 9th and Henderson Island on the 10th with 2 there on the 11th. Two seen on the 17th

on Morane Island. All birds identified were Wandering by their call and the wings just extending

beyond the tail tip.

Wandering Tattlers on Mangareva Island (CC)

Wandering Tattler on Mangareva Island. (JFC)

Wandering Tattler on Pitcairn Island. (CC)

Tuamotu Sandpiper – Prosobonia cancellata

Unable to land on Morane Island for close up views but with the aid of the telescope, acceptable views

were obtained with 20 seen on the 17th and 30 on the 18th. Amazing in flight, which reminded me of a

tiny woodcock “roding”. Dark looking birds and strange to see them sat on branches and even on the

top of some tall trees.

Considered Endangered by Birdlife International (2000), due to its very small range.

Tuamotu Sandpiper on Morane Island. (CC)

Tuamotu Sandpiper in flight (CC)

A major disappointment when we were unable to land on Morane Island

due to rough seas not allowing us to navigate through the coral reef which

surrounds this Island and we had to make do with telescope views from

the deck of our boat outside of the reef.

South Polar Skua – Stercorarius maccormicki

One passed the ship at very close range on the 10th.

South Polar Skua - Our only sighting on this trip. (CC)

Great Crested Tern – Sterna bergii cristata

Six seen on Tahiti on the 5th, with 7 on Mangareva Island on the 6th, and 1 on the 19th. Four were

seen on Morane Island on the 17th with 2 on the 18th. It was much scarcer than I was expecting.

Crested Tern at Mangareva Island. (CC)

Sooty Tern – Sterna fuscata

Just seen on two dates with 10 on the 14th and 15 on the 17th. Like the previous species, much

scarcer than expected.

Sooty Terns - but always fairly distant off the boat.

Black Noddy – Anous minutus minutus

One seen on the 9th on Pitcairn Island, 2 on the 16th over the Portland Banks and one on the 18th

at Morane Island.

Brown Noddy – Anous stolidus pileatus

Recorded in low numbers on 8 dates, and again scarcer than expected. Daily maximum, of just 30 on

the 12th.

Blue Noddy – Proceisterna cerulea murphyi

The only ones identified for certain were in the Gambier Islands on the 19th, with 3 dark phase birds with

the darker grey under-wings and at least 6 intermediate forms, very similar in plumage to the Grey Noddy.

On one occasion, we had an intermediate and a dark phase flying together for good comparison. Much

debate took place if this species is a good split, but on reference to Handbook of Birds of the World,

they consider that the split is valid.

Blue Noddy types feeding in the Gambier Lagoon (CC)

Grey Noddy – Proceisterna albivitta skottsbergii

25 were seen on the cliffs on Pitcairn Island on the 9th, which included a very juvenile bird. Recent

literature has not included Pitcairn Island as a breeding site for this species.

One on Henderson on the 10th and 5 there on the 11th. Nine seen at Oneo Atoll on the 12th.

Grey Noddy on Pitcairn Island (CC)

White Tern – Gygis alba

By far the commonest Tern.and recorded on all but 2 dates with a daily maximum of 50 on several dates. The race “leucopes” was seen on both Henderson & Pitcairn Islands

White Tern over Henderson Island (JFC).

White Tern on Pitcairn Island (CC).

Zebra Dove – Geopelia striata
Very common on Tahiti on the 5th.

Grey Green Fruit Dove – Ptilinopus purpuratus purpuratus
Twenty were seen on Tahiti on the 5th.

Henderson Island Fruit Dove – Ptilinopus insularis
Just 3 were seen on Henderson Island on the 11th. One showed for almost 5 minutes at very close range. Superb!!
Considered Vulnerable by Birdlife International (2000) as it is only found on Henderson Island.

Henderson Island Fruit Dove - 1 of 3 seen on Henderson Island (CC).

Stephen’s Lorikeet – Vini stepheni
Six were seen on both the 10th and 11th on Henderson Island, chiefly only in flight, with only poor views of one perched.
Considered Vulnerable by Birdlife International (2000), as it is only found on Henderson Island.

Polynesian Swiftlet – Aerodramus leucophaeus
Twelve were seen in the Papehue Valley on Tahiti on the 5th including several visiting some caves in this valley. First discovered in 1923.
Considered Vulnerable by Birdlife International (2000), with a population of only 1,000 birds.

The Polynesian Swiftlet gorge in the Papehue Valley, Tahiti. (CC).

Tahiti Kingfisher – Todirhamphus veneratus
A pair showed very well along a wooded river valley on Tahiti on the 5th and others were heard calling. One of the birds caught a large green caterpillar, which it took about 5 minutes to eat.

Tahiti Kingfisher

Red Vented Bulbul – Pycnonotus cafer
Very common on Tahiti on the 5th.

Tahiti Reed Warbler – Acrocephalus atyphus
Just a single bird, seen along a wooded valley on Tahiti on the 5th. The bird showed very well for about 5 minutes and was also heard calling. It had an extremely long bill.
Considered Vulnerable by Birdlife International (2000), with a small population of less than 1,000 birds.

Pitcairn Island Reed Warbler – Acrocephalus vaughani
Proved to be common on Pitcairn Island on the 12th with at least 16 different birds being seen, including a number of very pale individuals, although it proved to be very variable in plumage. To my eye, the bird appeared more Hippolais like than Acrocephalus.
Considered Vulnerable by Birdlife International (2000), as it is only found on Pitcairn Island.

Habitat of the Pitcairn Reed Warbler (JFC)

Pitcairn Reed Warblers (JFC)

Pitcairn Reed Warblers one showing much browner wings the near bird showing

extensive white wings and tail (CC)

Pitcairn Reed Warbler showing the normal form with large areas of white on the wing

Pitcairn Reed Warbler is an extremely variable Warbler with the amount of white in

both the wings and tail.

Various Pitcairn Reed-Warblers - fair numbers were seen.

Henderson Island Reed Warbler – Acrocephalus taiti
We soon located 3 in thickets in a brief search on Henderson Island on the 11th. Appeared quite distinctive from the Pitcairn species and looked far more like an Acrocephalus.
Considered Vulnerable by Birdlife International (2000), as it is only found on Henderson Island.

Just my record shot of Henderson Island Reed-Warbler (JFC),

at least Chris did a lot better than myself, but they weren't easy.

Henderson Island Reed-Warbler - Three were seen. (CC)

Tahiti Monarch – Pomarea nigra

Just 2, an adult and an immature were found in the forest along the Papehue Valley on Tahiti on the 5th. They eventually gave good views, but kept to the mid-storey of the forests, although the immature did spend a short time on the side of a bank covered in ferns and other vegetation.

Considered Critical by Birdlife International (2000), due to a tiny population of about 20 birds. Although conservation action in recent years has prevented its extinction.

Silver-eye – Zosterops lateralis

Proved to be common on Tahiti on the 5th.

Common Myna – Acridotheres tristis

Very common on Tahiti on the 5th.

Common Waxbill – Estrilda astrild

Six were seen on Tahiti on the 5th.

Chestnut Breasted Munia – Lonchura castaneothorax

At least 15 were seen on Tahiti on the 5th, chiefly in gardens around the Towns.